FREE COURSES: Winter Wednesdays with the Provincetown Library

Create Your Ideal Top
with Greg Salvatori

Creating a pattern that works

Building on the crucial information and understanding from Week 1, students will start drawing paper patterns, translating flat measurements into 3-dimensional forms.

We are gonna focus on the three main blocks: Front, Back, and Sleeves using a simple base pattern.

TIP: Start by folding your paper lengthwise and draft your pattern, making sure you work with perpendicular lines and perfect square corners of 90 degrees. Use a thin pencil and try to be as accurate as possible. It will make a big difference in the final result.

IMPORTANT: You’re in uncharted territory, and the goal is not to make the perfect pattern here but to take educated guesses. This pattern will give you a foundation, and after your first fitting, you’ll be able to adjust it and make it into what you really want.

FRONT PATTERN

Shoulder Width

Start your pattern by tracing your Shoulder Width measurement and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line/fold.

FRONT PATTERN

Shoulder High Point

This vertical measure will give you an horizontal line to be met by the shoulder length, forming a triangle. See next slide to have a clearer idea.

FRONT PATTERN

Shoulder Length

Meet the shoulder tip with the high point. Do this on both sides.

FRONT PATTERN

Shoulder Depth

Use your Shoulder Depth measure to trace a line. This point determines an horizontal line where the armpit and the chest line meet.

FRONT PATTERN

Front Chest

Draw your Front Chest Measurement (part of your Chest Circumference) and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

FRONT PATTERN

Front Length

Draw your Front Length Measurement from the side of the neck (the meeting point of High Neck and Shoulder Length). Keep this line perfectly parallel to the main central line.

FRONT PATTERN

Hips / Bottom of the Garment

Draw your Front Hips/Bottom of the Garment measurement (part of your Hips Circumference) and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

FRONT PATTERN

Connect the Measurement

Draw your neck and shoulders helping yourself with a curved ruler.

IMPORTANT: The shoulder line will need to match the sleeves measurement. Consider this a temporary line for now, you’ll be able to adjust it later.

BACK PATTERN

Shoulder Width

In a new sheet, trace your measure and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

BACK PATTERN

Shoulder High Point

This vertical measure will give you an horizontal line to be met by the shoulder length, forming a triangle. See next slide to have a clearer idea.

TIP: if you’re using tracing paper, you copy this part from the FRONT PATTERN. Just make sure you align the main central line perfectly.

BACK PATTERN

Shoulder Depth

Use your Shoulder Depth measure to trace a line. This point determines an horizontal line where the armpit and the chest line meet.

TIP: if you’re using tracing paper, you copy this part from the FRONT PATTERN. Just make sure you align the main central line perfectly.

BACK PATTERN

Back Chest

Draw your Back Chest Measurement (part of your Chest Circumference) and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

NOTE: This line is usually slightly shorter compared to the Front Chest one.

BACK PATTERN

Back Length

Draw your Front Length Measurement from the side of the neck (the meeting point of High Neck and Shoulder Length). Keep this line perfectly parallel to the main central line.

NOTE: This line is usually slightly longer compared to the Front Length one.

BACK PATTERN

Hips / Bottom of the Garment

Draw your Back Hips/Bottom of the Garment measurement (part of your Hips Circumference) and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

BACK PATTERN

Connect the Measurement

Draw your neck and shoulders helping yourself with a curved ruler.

NOTE: The neck and shoulder lines in the Back Pattern are usually visibly shallower than the FRONT, to match our shape and movement.

IMPORTANT: Remember the shoulder line will need to match the sleeves measurement. Consider this a temporary line for now, you’ll be able to adjust it later.

SLEEVE PATTERN

Sleeve Length

Trace your measure and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

SLEEVE PATTERN

Sleeve Cap

Trace your measure and make sure to stay perpendicular and centered to the main central line.

NOTE: this measure is almost completely arbitrary. it depends on the style and use you want to your garment. A very average measure, and a good starting point, is usually equal to one third of your Armhole Circumference.

SLEEVE PATTERN

Sleeve Width

Draw a line representing the width of the sleeve in its larger point (reference your Bicep Measurement and your Armhole Measurement).

TIP: A very easy and common way to decide the width of a sleeve is to take the Bicep Measurement and add 2/2.5 inches.

NOTE: The style you chose for you garment makes a big difference here. A tight fit, a stretchy and athletic top, or a fashionable silk blouse will be wildly different.

SLEEVE PATTERN

Shoulder Circumference

Trace the shape of your shoulder according to two main parameters: the type of shoulder you want for your garment and the difference between the front and the back of your measurement.

IMPORTANT: Remember this shoulder line will need to match the sleeves measurement.

SLEEVE PATTERN

Wrist

Trace the shape of your shoulder according to two main parameters: the type of shoulder you want for your garment and the difference between the front and the back of your measurement.

IMPORTANT: Remember this shoulder line will need to match the sleeves measurement.

SLEEVE PATTERN

Connect the Measurement

Draw your connecting lines and the sleeve takes shape.

IMPORTANT: Remember most fabric have a “Right Side” or “Face” and a “Wrong Side” or “Underside/Back.” Make sure you flip the pattern when cutting the fabric or you’ll be left with two right or two left sleeves!